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Dead monitors
Both of my LG Flatron L1933TR-SF stopped working. Power button just did nothing.
After searching found it was likely bad caps.
Opening these monitors was a serious pita but it turns out the both have the same bad 3 caps.
Comments
5 responses to “Dead monitors”
Dec 18, 2012 06:32 from Justin Case
Replace only the caps that are bad.Here’s the Digikey order:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EEU-FR1C102L/P14397-ND/2433531
^^^1000UF/16V 4@$0.71/ea = $2.84http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EEU-FR1E681L/P14421-ND/2433555
^^^680UF/25V 2@$0.71/ea = $1.42Subtotal = $4.26
Shipping (USPS Priority Mail = $4.91
Total = $9.17Make sure you have a solder wick (pick it up at RadioShack), some
soldering paste, a good iron and some solder.MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR POLARITY CORRECT! The long pin on the CAP is +.
Remove the old caps. Insert the new caps. Dab a little paste around the
pins and the contacts on the board. Melt some solder to the tip of the
iron, touch the iron to the pin/board and wammo/blammo. Done.
[Hardware> msg #110781 (0 remaining)]Feb 28, 2013 14:53 from The After Party
Monitor Caps/SolderingI still haven’t ordered the caps. I’m doing to do that now.
Since I have no soldering iron, I might as well order one now as well.
Recommendataions? This might be my only soldering job so I’m looking for
pretty cheap.
Since I”m getting the caps from
http://www.digikey.com/
I might get the soldering iron from there…
http://goo.gl/yj9E3
Too simple? no stand?Do I need to order some solder as well?
[Hardware> msg #110945 (3 remaining)] Read cmd -> Next
Feb 28, 2013 20:11 from Justin Case
TAP–>That should be okay. You’ll need some solder and some soldering paste.
And perhaps a solder wick.Honestly, just run by a Radio Shack and pick that stuff up there. It’s decent
and will work fine.
[Hardware> msg #110946Feb 28, 2013 21:20 from Grayson
Or a cheap one from Amazon.
[Hardware> msg #110947 (1 remaining)] Read cmd -> NextFeb 28, 2013 21:40 from LOGAN
No need for solder paste. If ytou use electronics solder, it already has flux
(generaslly rosin) in the core of the solder. You absolutely need a soldering
iron and solder.It’s also nice to have either a desoldering iron or a roll of desoldering
braid, though neither is explicitly neccesary. I got away without either for
a long time, but prefer to keep both handy these days.If you’re re-capping a monitor, a set of diagonal cutters and a needle nose
pliers make life much easier as well. As for the iron, through-hole
componenets aren’t that touchy. A ~20-watt iron from wherever, with a
smallish tip, is generally the weapon of choice.
[Hardware> msg #110948http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/WPS18MP/WPS18MP-ND/1948484
I cannot tell for certain that these caps are the right size:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/16YXG1000M10X20/1189-1133-ND/3134091
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UPW1C102MPD/493-1790-ND/589531
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EKY-160ELL102MJ20S/565-1527-ND/756043
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ELXZ160ELL102MJ20S/565-1933-ND/756449Therefore I’m just going to get the Kit:
https://www.hobbymods.com/store/index.php/lg-l1933tr-a-lcd-monitor-repair-kit-fix-broken-parts.html
And a soldering iron:
https://www.hobbymods.com/store/index.php/30-watt-soldering-irons.htmlMy step-dad happen to visit so I asked him to do the soldering since he’s made MANY stained glass windows and has some experience.
Both monitors are working again. The soldering was quite difficult due to the (small) size and the fact that the (cheap) soldering iron tip kept moving! Eventually we figured out how to tighten it, but it would still eventually work itself loose again.
Only 4 months later..
Now to setup my desk again.
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